1967 Autodynamics Race Car - rehab

[conductorx]

The engine is full flow, and another cooler is allowed. The total max hose length is 6ft. For the sump only 250cc is allowed, I have one of those cup sumps. That sump is only allowed to prevent oil starvation when cornering. The push rod tubes are also allowed to have windage baffles.

Electric cooling fans are not allowed so the remote cooler has to be placed in a natural airstream under the body. On the body next to the drivers head is an air scoop on each side. They look like hand holds.

"G"

[conductorx]

This will be my last post on this car until we start doing some more work on it.
21 January 2007 Hammond, LA

Another busy weekend. Once again some set backs and some achievements. When I installed the generator belt it would not line up. After taking some careful measurements I discovered I have a Bus heavy duty generator. They are typically 1/2 longer than a stock genny. Plus they require a dished mount on the doghouse. I also built an oil filter mount and mount for the Jazz overflow bottle. I completed the dash board mounts and powdercoated the new dash board.

This is the bus generator that had to be replaced.


Once I changed out the generator. I fabricated brackets for the overflow can and the oil filter. Here is the Jazz overflow can with three vent lines. One more line is needed for the transmission vent.


Here is the oil filter mounted to the other side of the transmission.
border="0" src="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j273/ConductorX/autodynamics_2/IMG_3320.jpg[/img]

I installed a motorcycle sissy bar pad on the fire wall to act as the required head rest. The big dimple is extra space provided for the generator pulley.


Finally I installed the inserts to mount the dash board and I powdercoated the dash with clear coating.





28 January 2007 - Hammond, LA
I was only off on Saturday and Sunday. Saturday rained all day so I worked in the shop on details. I had a question come in about VW starters so I started digging in the old parts for a "Thing" starter. Found one but it was trashed. Think I'll bring it in for a another rebuilt one.

I pulled the starter from FV#2 and cleaned it up and painted it.
border="0" src="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j273/ConductorX/autodynamics_2/IMG_3327.jpg[/img

I mounted a six circuit fuse box. Six circuits are way too many but you never know what you may need.


I installed the starter and started wiring the car.


The dash wiring is coming along. I want to loom the wire around the top of the dash plate.


Since I started wiring the car it has been running really bad. I adjusted the valves and discovered the #3 and #4 cylinders with the replacement head would not adjust properly. I determined that I needed shims to adjust the valve train geometry. I installed the shims, started the engine and set the timing. It still was not running good. A look at the timing showed me the distributor was not advancing. So I popped in another distributor.

With the engine running so badly I decided to run the valves again. I found the intake valve on #2 stuck partially open. I pulled that head off and found a bolt stuck in the valve. No one to blame but my self. During assembly I dropped a bolt and thought it landed on the floor. I never did find it and never thought to look in the head.

Photo of the bolt.


I inspected the piston and did not find any damage.


I am waiting on new push rod tubes so I returned to the body work by applying fiberglass to the inside of the upper body section.


24 March 2006 Hammond LA

AN Fittings and Hose...
I have never dealt with AN fitting or hose. If you have and I did something wrong let me know. I want to run two hoses from the engine to a filter.

Rules require the fitting next to the engine have to be screwed together, slip on fittings and hose clamps are not allowed.

So I bought all the parts and pieces:


The hose end screws inside the red sleeve fitting and then the other part of the fitting screws on and goes inside the hose. This effectively clamps the hose inside the fitting.


The black wrench is a 6-AN fitting wrench. It is aluminum just like the fittings. The photo also shows the blue 3/8 NPT (pipe) X 6-AN fittings. Each AN fitting sizes are given as a whole number. The 6-AN size I used appears to be a 3/8 ID hose. To put the hose in the fitting I used a Koul Tool. The tool holds the fitting and is clamped into a vise. Then the hose is screwed into the fitting.


Here are the hoses made up and attached to the engine. It is reported the hoses when properly assembled can hold 250 psig. It also appears the hose ends can be reused. It is a very nice looking job and meets racing rules.
border="0" src="http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j273/ConductorX/autodynamics_2/IMG_3495.jpg[/img]

AN hose and fittings are expensive $$$. Fittings and hose cost me $100 for two hoses. The Koul Tool is another $75 but will work on three sizes of hose. If I need bigger hose I have to shell out another $75. Simple fittling and hose ends are $4 to $5. Fancy fittings such as the 90 degree hose ends are $13-$15 each. Stainless steel braided hose is $4 a foot for 6-AN from JEGS.

Once I finished playing with the hoses I started installing the new push rod tubes from my bling-pile.[/b]


Work has stopped on this car for now, but these posts have inspired me to continue my work on this car in the near future.

Thanks,
Gary

[FRK]

That means we are going to wait to see this car done? How long?
When are you starting on it again?

Great Thread and pictures Gary. How is the motor? Did you started it again after removing the bolt?

[conductorx]

Oh yes the motor runs great. I popped on a new head and never missed a beat.

"G"

[FRK]

Aug 12, 2009 7:29:30 GMT -8 conductorx said:

Oh yes the motor runs great. I popped on a new head and never missed a beat.

"G"